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My First Day in The Gambia

4 days ago

4 min read

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I have now completed my first full day in The Gambia, and already, it has been fantastic. I know I will remember this week forever.


Arrival in Banjul


I arrived last night at Banjul airport, where I was greeted warmly by many Gambians before being driven to the Gunjur Project. The drive was long and busy, with chaotic roads that made me glad I wasn’t behind the wheel! Nevertheless, I arrived in one piece. Stepping out of the car, I was struck by the incredible night-time noise from the crickets - at first, I thought they were cicadas, but I later learned that their calls are deafening and wouldn’t be heard at this time of year. I was shown my room and, tired from the long flight, settled in for the night. The rhythmic sound of the crickets, initially distracting, became strangely soothing, and I fell asleep quickly.


First Morning in Gunjur


I woke early to sit in the garden and test my newly learned Gambian bird ID skills. I had spent most of my flight reading through Birds of Senegal and Gambia, but I quickly realised I needed more practice as I fumbled my way through some dove identification. Thankfully, I wasn’t left to figure it all out on my own—I was meeting Brendan, who would guide me through the week.


A Laughing Dove, the first species that I was comfortable identifying
A Laughing Dove, the first species that I was comfortable identifying

Visiting the Local Clinic


We started by visiting a local clinic that the Gunjur Project had helped fund. There, we met Bai, who had been supported by the project to complete his medical degree. He now acts as the first point of contact for residents needing medical assistance, saving them from having to travel long distances for treatment. It was inspiring to hear about his work - not just providing medical care but also educating the community on healthcare and preventative measures.


Bai, in front of the new centre, funding by the Gunjur Project
Bai, in front of the new centre, funding by the Gunjur Project

Exploring Bolongfenyo Community Wildlife Reserve


Brendan then took me to Bolongfenyo Community Wildlife Reserve, where we met Sulayman, a warden dedicated to protecting the site. Walking with Brendan and Sulayman revealed details of the reserve I never would have noticed alone. I was particularly thrilled to see a Pied Hornbill, a bird I hadn’t expected to be lucky enough to spot.


Talking to Brendan and Sulayman, I was struck by the challenges they face in conservation. The value of the wood in the reserve makes it tempting for people to take, stripping away vital habitat. Batteries had also been stolen from camera traps and moth traps, making Sulayman’s role all the more difficult as he works to protect the area.


The Pied Hornbill was one of my favourite birds I saw today
The Pied Hornbill was one of my favourite birds I saw today

Changing Landscapes


As we walked, we reached an area that becomes completely flooded in the wet season. It was once a freshwater site used for rice growing, but local development has turned it into a saltwater zone, making it unsuitable for traditional crops. One thing I found astonishing was that the mangroves here actively filter salt from the water - evident from the thick layer of salt on their leaves, which I confirmed with a quick lick of my finger. Despite these changes, wildlife is still making the most of the environment. We saw a Cattle Egret (right alongside an actual cattle!), an Intermediate Egret, and a Squacco Heron, all making the most of the habitat.


The Mangrove leaves are covered in a thin layer of salt
The Mangrove leaves are covered in a thin layer of salt

A Spectacular Sight


We continued along what was once the river basin until we reached a large body of water. I didn’t know where to look first—the sheer number of birds was overwhelming! Cattle Egrets roosted in numbers I had never seen before, alongside species I had long wanted to see, like Spur Winged Lapwings, Vultures, and Caspian Terns. Yet, two birds stood out in particular. A single Osprey, perched between two palm trees, and a Pied Kingfisher, endlessly fishing right in front of us.


In fact, throughout the day, I saw more Ospreys than I have ever seen before, and it was as surreal as I had imagined to witness them at this time of year. Tomorrow, we are heading out specifically to look for them, and I couldn’t be more excited.


The Pied Kingfisher, preparing for another dive!
The Pied Kingfisher, preparing for another dive!

Ending the Day


Returning to the Gunjur Project, I spent the rest of the afternoon watching the birds visiting the garden and making full use of my now well-worn bird guidebook. My favourite sightings so far include the White-Crowned Robin-Chat, Senegal Coucal, and Red-Cheeked Cordon-Bleu, all absolutely beautiful birds and striking in their own way.

Tomorrow promises another exciting day, and I can’t wait to see what’s next.


The Senegal Coucal, absolutely stunning
The Senegal Coucal, absolutely stunning

My visit to The Gambia has been supported by The Osprey Leadership Foundation. I've been working with OLF over the winter months to support the delivery of their training and education programmes and I'm an active member of their Evolving Leaders Programme. While I'm here, I'm spending time with their partners The Gunjur Project and the Kartong Bird Observatory to learn more about the impact OLF's support is having here and I will hopefully have the opportunity to meet other participants of OLF's programmes. A massive thank you to the amazing donors who help fund the OLF's work and helped make this trip possible. If you would like to support the work of OLF, you can join as a Friend of the Foundation here



4 days ago

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