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My Second Day in The Gambia: Looking for Ospreys

3 days ago

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I have now finished my second day in The Gambia, and it has been just as incredible as the first. Every moment continues to bring new experiences, fascinating conversations, and unforgettable wildlife encounters.


The Gunjur Fisheries Plant


This morning, I met with Brendan and Sulayman to head to Gunjur Beach in search of local Ospreys. On the walk down, we passed through the fishing village, a bustling hub of activity. I learned that many Senegalese fishermen travel here at this time of year to take advantage of the rich waters. Beside the fisheries plant lay a large waste heap full of offcuts from the fish - it was pungent (as expected) but not so that it was overwhelming and Hooded Vultures, Cattle Egrets (this time sans cattle), and other species were taking full advantage of the easy food source.


A small but welcome surprise was seeing House Sparrows using the fisheries plant as a home, a familiar sight that felt like a small piece of home. What they were feeding we'll leave to speculation.


All sorts of birds making the most of the waste heap
All sorts of birds making the most of the waste heap

Wildlife Along the Shore (and so many Ospreys!)


Walking along the beach was a fantastic experience, with so many species taking refuge on the sands and rocky outcrops. Birds I’m used to seeing in the UK, like Grey Herons, Whimbrels, and a single Sanderling were joined by rafts of Grey-Headed Gulls floating in the shallows. I had been struggling to spot my first Osprey of the day, but then, turning a corner, I was met with an incredible sight: Ospreys leaving, passing over our heads, constantly being replaced by new arrivals fresh from the sea with their catches. Counting them, I found myself muttering an audible, “Oh my god,” much to Brendan and Sulayman’s amusement, but I don’t think there’s ever been a better time for such an exclamation.


The Ospreys passed right over our heads
The Ospreys passed right over our heads

As we continued watching, Brendan pointed out the fishing nets used by the larger ships. He explained how they can get caught on rocks, extending beyond the expected limits of the buoys floating on the surface. Right on cue, an Osprey demonstrated the potential danger, scanning the nets for trapped fish. Though it didn’t get tangled, the risk was clear.


The fishing boats heading out to sea
The fishing boats heading out to sea

The Impact of Fishing on Local Wildlife


Ospreys aren’t the only species affected by these fishing practices. Further along the beach, we spotted Hooded Vultures gathered around a turtle carcass. When we got closer, we saw that the only apparent damage was that its head was missing. It was speculated that this could have been bycatch and that it had been discarded from a boat to avoid penalties. Sulayman documented the turtle with measurements and photographs to report the sighting. It was a shame that my first encounter with a wild turtle had to be this way, but it served as a stark reminder of the ongoing conservation challenges in the region.


Sulayman taking the measurements from the Turtle carcass
Sulayman taking the measurements from the Turtle carcass

The Gunjur Sand Quarry


From the beach, we made our way to the Gunjur Sand Quarry, passing numerous Hooded Vultures and Yellow-Billed Kites perched on wooden structures. Along the way, we spotted more Ospreys perched and eating their freshly caught fish breakfasts. Something I found particularly fascinating today was the sheer variety of fish they were catching - far more than the few species I was used to seeing at Rutland Water. As we walked, we spotted a large pale raptor sitting in the treeline. Brendan identified it as a juvenile Western Banded Snake Eagle, and we watched it through the scope before continuing.


A Hooded Vulture sat watching us
A Hooded Vulture sat watching us

Arriving at the quarry, I was taken aback by the sheer volume of wildlife present. Sandpipers, herons, Black-Winged Stilts, and an astonishing number of Pied Kingfishers - sometimes five at a time! Madness! In fact, I think I’ve had more sightings of Pied Kingfishers in two days in The Gambia than I have had of Common Kingfishers in my entire life! All of this and also nine Ospreys cooling off in a pool at the far side. One in particular caught my attention - perched on a branch, conveniently allowing for a clear view of its leg ring (generous, I thought). We took as many photos as possible, and after reviewing the images, we came to the conclusion that it was 57F, a Norwegian-born Osprey recently seen in a similar location by Andy Young.By the end of the day, we had seen about 30 different Ospreys from our walk along Gunjur Beach. That in itself would have made it a very special day.


The Pied Kingfishers looking for their next meal
The Pied Kingfishers looking for their next meal

As we started heading back, the morning continued to deliver surprises. A Woodchat Shrike perched on a bush caught our attention - a bird I have long thought would be amazing to see, and it did not disappoint. With this extra boost of excitement, we made our way back to the Gunjur Project, hot and weary, but completely satisfied with the morning’s sightings.


A real treat to see the Woodchat Shrike
A real treat to see the Woodchat Shrike

Visiting the Women's Garden


After lunch, I was invited to visit one of the local women’s gardens, something I was particularly keen to see. Upon arrival, we were greeted warmly by the women tending the crops and by the many children who were fascinated by my binoculars and camera. The gardens were vast, growing a variety of crops including tomatoes, chilli peppers, and aubergines. The women explained how their work feeds their families, but they also sell the surplus to generate income.


The children at the garden
The children at the garden

The women went on to speak about the threats to their garden, mainly being raids by monkeys, and this reminded me of something Brendan had spoken to me about yesterday when walking around Bolongfenyo. As the trees from which the monkeys feed are removed by the locals for timber, and their fruits are taken to be eaten, the monkeys' source of food is reduced making them look to other options. They are clever, and know that the women's garden will always be a source of high quality food and so they steal from them, causing constant hassle for the women. This in turn, also effects the children, as it creates another barrier for their education; some cannot afford the costs of school, but for some they are unable to make the journey as their mothers are staying at the gardens to ward off the thieving monkeys. After thanking them for showing us their gardens (and after we witnessed first-hand some blatant thievery), we said our farewells and made our way back to the Project for dinner.


The thief in question
The thief in question

The Night Survey


This evening, I joined Brendan, Sulayman, and Brendan's son, Charlie, for one of their night surveys, looking for nocturnal species around Bolongfenyo. We set up a moth trap before heading into the forest in search of Bushbabies and spiders. We managed to spot one Bushbaby’s eyes shining back at us in the torchlight and saw countless small spiders scuttling through the undergrowth.


After checking the moth trap, we moved to the waterfront for a crocodile count. There were several around us, but one particularly massive crocodile patrolled back and forth in front of us - absolutely amazing to see. It was at this point that Brendan kindly reminded me (unprompted before you ask(!), unless he sensed my unspoken concern) that they likely would have no interest in eating me as they much prefer the fish readily available to them.


With that reassurance, we concluded our night survey and headed back to the Gunjur Project to rest, ready for tomorrow.

Searching for Crocodiles
Searching for Crocodiles

My visit to The Gambia has been supported by The Osprey Leadership Foundation. I've been working with OLF over the winter months to support the delivery of their training and education programmes and I'm an active member of their Evolving Leaders Programme. While I'm here, I'm spending time with their partners The Gunjur Project and the Kartong Bird Observatory to learn more about the impact OLF's support is having here and I will hopefully have the opportunity to meet other participants of OLF's programmes. A massive thank you to the amazing donors who help fund the OLF's work and helped make this trip possible. If you would like to support the work of OLF, you can join as a Friend of the Foundation here



3 days ago

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